4 Womenswear Designers Who Need To Start Designing Menswear- Stat!

It's blindingly obvious to say but it always needs to be said - compared to womenswear, menswear is invariably uninspired, not particularly innovative and let's face it, pretty fucking boring.

Fashion week is not solely to blame, nor are premium brands, if you've been in a high street store lately then you will have been overwhelmed by the plethora of options on offer to the fairer sex. Fashion forward separates to mix and match seamlessly into a wardrobe of classic staples, trend-led outfits inspired by (and perhaps direct copies of) fashion week looks, celebrity street style for a fraction of the price, all over a minimum of two floors. Meanwhile, us men settle for a depressing melange of dated graphic tees, ill fitting faux leather jackets and literally the same shoes that have been on sale for the past twenty years, all huddled onto one floor or perhaps a sad little corner of the kidswear floor (yes, I'm talking about you ZARA). Speaking of ZARA, can any of you dear readers help explain why their menswear is so seismically disjointed from their womenswear offering? Because I can't. I know plenty of girls who get gorgeous pieces from ZARA on a weekly basis while I struggle to find anything that doesn't make me look like an Italian barber with a sports car (not that there's anything wrong in that, it just isn't exactly the aesthetic I strive for).

I've recently Carrie Bradshaw-ly "got to thinking" about from who I would absolutely love to see a menswear offering. Brands and designers who not only show great tailoring prowess which could easily be transferred into menswear, but also a brand that has fun, brings innovation to the table and could offer something wholly new to the lacklustre world of menswear. And so here, in no particular order, are my ideal fantastic four.

Short Read: Menswear Cheers Up (Spring 2018 Review)

A few months ago you may remember me lamenting at the absolute state of recent menswear shows in my post - Menswear Needs An Antidepressant . It was a post born out of frustration and a mild cry for help. Bored of seeing drab, oversized, suffocating looks come stomping down the runway, models appearing to be riddled with angst, the clothes themselves looking as though they bear a grudge, I took to this blog to exorcise my outrage. This season, it brings me an immeasurable amount of satisfaction to say, men's fashion has cheered up! Well... a little. I'd like to think that John Galliano, Raf Simons et al are all avid readers of this blog and were absolutely distraught that I was feeling down about mens fashion so took it upon themselves to turn it around... a boy can dream.

With so many brands now showing their menswear and womenswear in singular shows, there's added pressure for designers to amp up the menswear to match the resplendence of their womenswear, and make both lines equally as Instagrammable. This season saw prints, patterns and sequins (oh my!) clashes of faux fur and stripes with florals and fringe to boot. It all sounds over the top, I know, but these things can be done tastefully when done with restraint. Excess may work for some, but it doesn't mean all brands should succumb to "Guccification" just because there's freedom to do so. 

As the winter of discontent is slowly turning into a summer of love (with J.W. Anderson literally putting hearts all over everything) I thought I'd offer up my favourite menswear looks from the season, below. Special shout outs go to Paul Smith who showed an incredible use of colour without going overboard - a stark contrast to the refined "tailoring with a twist" the brand is so synonymous with and also to J.W. Anderson who's entire collection I'm now coveting (particularly the love heart-speckled leather jacket).

Oh, and the key colour we'll apparently all be wearing next spring? Red. Not a certain obscure shade of red, we're talking red - bright, brash, unapologetic, Crayola, post box, Louboutin sole red. Just divine. Check it all out below. 

Short Read: Menswear Needs An Antidepressant

For the past few seasons I've slowly started to fall out of love with fashion week. Not only do "seasons" feel somewhat antiquated but there's seems to be an increasing level of pomp and circumstance and more of focus on sales rather than artistry, resulting in a drought of talent or as André Leon Talley would call it, "A famine of beauty!".

While many new creative directors are still easing themselves into their roles, we're still waiting for a big bang moment, which may well come next season when some of them debut their collections.

That aside, designers seem to be phoning it in a little. Not only is artistry suffering but also quality and above all - fantasy! Regardless of what you might think of their work, when it comes to the big names, designers Alessandro Michele, Jeremy Scott, Marc Jacobs and Thom Browne seem to be the only ones having fun. When did fashion become so serious?! Mens fashion in particular is in dire need of cheering up. Models are stick thin, ghostly pale and draped in ill-fitting, dark clothing, stomping down the runway looking positively mortified at what their mates down the pub would say if they saw them dressed like this.

TOM FORD FALL 2016 REVIEW

Lucky Blue and Gigi Hadid walk for Tom Ford - Fall 2016. Image: Vogue Runway 

Fashion month has officially kicked off to a roaring start and who better to really get things going than the dashing Jack-of-all-trades supremo Tom Ford?

Yesterday Ford debuted his first show-now-buy-now collection, and though it is still yet to be seen exactly how (and indeed how well) the immediately-available fashion week format is going to work, Ford is clearly in no way intimidated.

Kenzo x H&M: FIRST LOOKS!

When Kenzo was confirmed as the most recent H&M designer collaboration, the twittersphere seemed more excitable than usual. While previous collaborations such as Versace, Karl Lagerfeld and last year's Balmain have been a sort of novelty for the brands from the upper realms of the fashion stratosphere to create high street clothing (emulating but of course never quite matching the aesthetic or quality of their own designs) this collab could be one to break the mould. 

Best of the Rest: A round-up of my favourite looks this season

And there it is - another menswear micro-season wrapped up. We've seen 70s hippies at Moschino, 90s psychedelia at Gucci, naked kings at Commes des Garçons, British heritage marrying Parisian elegance at Dior and a celebration of the British seaside at Topman Design. What a trip! 

While this has probably been the best set of collections I've seen in years, there's still a long way for menswear to go when it comes to experimentation and boundary pushing.

Here, I've pulled together some of my favourite looks from some of my favourite brands which deserve shout out for showing something different, playing around with proportion, print and generally being less conservative and more experimental. Something the world is in dire need of - bravo!


African-inspired prints, perfect pattern clashing and global jet-set chic at Louis Vuitton (Kim Jones I love you please dress me every day k thanx bye) 

REVIEW: Gucci Menswear - Spring 2017

Ever wondered what it would be like if Bryan Fuller and Wes Anderson designed menswear? Me neither, but now, we don't have to! 

In a clear digression from its Brit-punk infused Cruise collection where Britain's melting pot cultured was realised in all its kaleidoscopic splendour, Gucci's Spring 2017 Menswear show was a worldly, multicultural myriad of geek-chic and historic-looking Chinese silks. 

PUMP UP THE VOLUME: This season's standout trend

Left: MSGM Resort 2017 Right: BOSS Resort 2017

Every season I study countless images of runways, presentations, trade shows and street style shots from all over the world to see what's going on in the world, you might say that even though it has been longer than I care to admit since I graduated, you never really stop being a fashion student.  This season, one thing has been inescapable - volume. Usually I get caught up in the types of fabric shown, how they're used and manipulated, but this season the one standout theme is the sheer amount of fabric. 

Oversized, super long, voluminous, long line, ill-fitting, baggy, however you may refer to it, in this post-recession era brands are being wholly unapologetic for their decadence. Gone are the minimalist, streamlined, clean lines of season past and here we have enough fabric in one garment to make a head to toe look.

A heavily denim-clad Pitti Uomo attendee shot by Phil Oh 

REVIEW: Gucci Cruise 2017

I have a confession: Alessandro Michele is a name I didn't know two years ago. Now however  it is a name I can barely go a week without saying. Gucci's Creative Director made absolutely no effort to ease his vision into the esteemed house's history when he took the helm in January of last year. Instead, he arrived in a explosion of prints, patterns and textures, a stark contrast to the heightened glamour of Gucci past. Talk about an entrance. This season, (Gucci Cruise 2017) was no exception. In fact, it was a step up. 

REVIEW: Topman Design Spring/Summer 2017

"Miami Vice meets Margate" isn't a sentence I thought I'd write when making notes on a menswear collection (or ever for that matter) and yet, here we are.

This season Topman Design showcased a brazen celebration of Britishness, the British seaside to be precise. Whether your sentiments towards British summers are that of looking out onto perfectly cloudless skies, above a glistening navy sea while you lap up a brilliant white ice cream, or of grey skies, howling winds, rickety death-defying fairground rides and eating shit fish and chips, there was something in this collection for everyone.

REVIEW: Moschino Menswear : Spring 2017

With Jeremy Scott at the helm, Moschino has gone from Italian fashion's neglected step child to one of fashion week's most talked about shows; and one of the decade's most divisive brands. Love it or loathe it, Moschino receives column inches other brands can only dream of and its divisiveness only adds to the much-hyped conversation. Better that people have a strong opinion, positive or otherwise, than no opinion at all. Right?

Gender Fluidity in Fashion: Just the beginning

If 2015 was the year that transgenderism was thrust into the media spotlight (with thanks in part to a certain Ms. Caitlyn Jenner), then 2016 is the year that gender barriers are shattered all together.

OBEY X Keith Haring

OBEY X Keith Haring at Urban Outfitters. I want.

Check out the promo video here.

And the rest (The remaining looks I loved from Men's Fashion Week)

Phillip Lim 

Layering, belting, knitwear and a monochromatic palette - yes, yes, yes and yes!

Henrik Vibskov 

Patterned seems to be the way forward next winter and these pants are no exception! Bordering on pyjama but with the right amount of edge to be pulled off - Yum!

Louis Vuitton

This coat/scarf/cardigan/cape/slanket/picnic blanket/snood/robe/cloak/whatever is to. die. for. I just want to jump in and wrap it around myself.

Yves Saint Laurent

Sleeveless belted-collar jacket teamed with a seamless leather T-shirt? Yes please!

 A chunky opulent black and white sweatshirt with razor blade details?  Oh go on then.  

Pictures from catwalking.com

Thom Browne Men's A/W 12

Ok, so we need to talk about Kevin Thom Browne's collection. The prints, the embellishments, the cuts, the fabrics - I loved it all. I want it all. Impeccably styled with prints that featured dogs, ducks, anchors and safety pins the collection also showcased studs on blazers and tailored trousers which offered a unique and austere view on preppy dressing (teamed with a gimp mask? Why not!)

Cropped shirts, knee high boots and rough, torn hems were paired with fitted dinner jackets, preppy scarves and bow ties - an unusual marriage of hot sex and high society. The overall theme that came to my mind was "Post-apocalyptic boarding school" - and I want in! 

I adored these details on the trousers, whether it be studs, spikes, anchors or all of the above, they all elegantly yet ominously adorned Browne's signature ankle-swinging-length trousers and teased the top of the leather boots.  It's interesting to me to see studs and spikes (which stereotypically make clothes heavy and rather shapeless) being used in a light, structured and almost delicate way.

Thoughts?

Pictures from catwalking.com

Mens A/W Fashion Week (so far)

Mens Fashion Week has been... less than inspiring thus far. It seems most designers have decided to show suits and very little else. Groundbreaking. There have however, been a few highlights, not just in garments but also some interesting styling accents. 

Here are a few of my favourite looks from the runway so far - 

Etro 

Etro have always been masters with prints and patterns and I adored the monochromatic prints they showcased this season. Bold yet sophisticated and although formal, the collection had a drapey, slouchy and relaxed silhouette which was a refreshing take on winter outerwear. Oh, and we do love a hat.

Christian Lacroix

I wasn't blown away by this collection but this look definitely stood out. I love the kaleidoscopic, Aztec-inspired print. Bold patterns aren't usually synonymous with winter wear but this winter it seems will (thankfully) break that tradition.

Vivienne Westwood  

The first thing I need to mention about this collection is the styling, predominantly, the hair and make-up which I feel is a genius touch to a winter collection. Hair was dusted with fake snow and some was even seen in beards and moustaches. The make-up was uber-tanned with severe highlights to really accentuate the just-came-in-from-the-blizzard aesthetic. Models almost looked frozen, yet still cosy (how could you not be when head-to-toe in Westwood?)

Yet again, prints and patterns showed prominence in this collection, although Westwood has never been a stranger to bold prints, it seemed that this time they will inevitably become the winter trend of this year. Designers (as am I) are eager to shun and keen to embrace the all-black-and-grey winter wardrobe, I look forward to seeing more from the menswear designers in the coming months! 

Pictures from catwalking.com

V Man 24: The Decades Issue

For their 24th Issue V Man has decided the celebrate the trends and designers that defined every decade from the 1930s up to this one! 

Beautifully photographed by Benjamin Lennox and expertly styled by Tom Van Dorpe, the issue is on sale now! 

The 1930s - Ralph Lauren

 1940s - Louis Vuitton 

1950s - DSQUARED2

1960s - Prada 
1970s - Gucci

1980s - Dolce & Gabbana 
1990s - Calvin Klein

2000s - G-Star 
2010s - Jil Sander

I'm completely in love with this editorial, a wonderful idea for now and for reference. It clearly showcases the way fashion always comes back around and that some things are timeless. On another note, it terrifies me that G-Star is considered to define the 2000s... or anything at all for that matter.

Womenswear as Menswear

Speaking of Vivienne Westwood, watching her Red Label show at London Fashion Weekend, I happened to notice three coats, meant for women, that I would definitely considering wearing. (The last one in particular - need!)

This has spawned a new obsession of mine, to broaden my purchasing horizons (not too sure if that's a good thing, perhaps my horizons are broad enough?) and find masculine womenswear that I could work into my wardrobe. The gender lines have been becoming so blurred over the past decade, and in a non-trannylicious way, I'm enjoying seeing what designers have come up with.

Along with the VW Red Label coats, the image of Lily Donaldson in these Alexander Wang trousers (above) has been engraved into my memory and they have subsequently become a must-have for me this year. Along with a Marios Schwab shirt with belted collar (below). There must be a menswear version of this somewhere!

Perhaps a phone call to Daddy is in order.

Take A Sip

For those of you who are always thirsty for more, don't forget to check out my Tumblr.

http://romanticallyjack.tumblr.com/

Life is somewhat hectic at the moment and I find myself updating that more often.

Enjoy my sweets.

Jean Paul Gaultier SS11 Campaign

Supermodel Karolina Kurkova and androgynista of the moment Andrej Pejic are the stars of Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2011 campaign. Styled almost identically, the models and the campaign highlight JPG's ongoing efforts to blur lines between gender barriers. I've been a fan of Andrej's for some time and his pretty/handsome look has always interested me, he just does androgyny so well!