Showing posts with label men's fashion week. Show all posts

Short Read: Menswear Needs An Antidepressant



For the past few seasons I've slowly started to fall out of love with fashion week. Not only do "seasons" feel somewhat antiquated but there's seems to be an increasing level of pomp and circumstance and more of focus on sales rather than artistry, resulting in a drought of talent or as André Leon Talley would call it, "A famine of beauty!".

While many new creative directors are still easing themselves into their roles, we're still waiting for a big bang moment, which may well come next season when some of them debut their collections.

That aside, designers seem to be phoning it in a little. Not only is artistry suffering but also quality and above all - fantasy! Regardless of what you might think of their work, when it comes to the big names, designers Alessandro Michele, Jeremy Scott, Marc Jacobs and Thom Browne seem to be the only ones having fun. When did fashion become so serious?! Mens fashion in particular is in dire need of cheering up. Models are stick thin, ghostly pale and draped in ill-fitting, dark clothing, stomping down the runway looking positively mortified at what their mates down the pub would say if they saw them dressed like this.


Best of the Rest: A round-up of my favourite looks this season


And there it is - another menswear micro-season wrapped up. We've seen 70s hippies at Moschino, 90s psychedelia at Gucci, naked kings at Commes des Garçons, British heritage marrying Parisian elegance at Dior and a celebration of the British seaside at Topman Design. What a trip! 

While this has probably been the best set of collections I've seen in years, there's still a long way for menswear to go when it comes to experimentation and boundary pushing.

Here, I've pulled together some of my favourite looks from some of my favourite brands which deserve shout out for showing something different, playing around with proportion, print and generally being less conservative and more experimental. Something the world is in dire need of - bravo!


African-inspired prints, perfect pattern clashing and global jet-set chic at Louis Vuitton (Kim Jones I love you please dress me every day k thanx bye) 


Thom Browne Men's A/W 12



Ok, so we need to talk about Kevin Thom Browne's collection. The prints, the embellishments, the cuts, the fabrics - I loved it all. I want it all. Impeccably styled with prints that featured dogs, ducks, anchors and safety pins the collection also showcased studs on blazers and tailored trousers which offered a unique and austere view on preppy dressing (teamed with a gimp mask? Why not!)


Cropped shirts, knee high boots and rough, torn hems were paired with fitted dinner jackets, preppy scarves and bow ties - an unusual marriage of hot sex and high society. The overall theme that came to my mind was "Post-apocalyptic boarding school" - and I want in! 



I adored these details on the trousers, whether it be studs, spikes, anchors or all of the above, they all elegantly yet ominously adorned Browne's signature ankle-swinging-length trousers and teased the top of the leather boots.  It's interesting to me to see studs and spikes (which stereotypically make clothes heavy and rather shapeless) being used in a light, structured and almost delicate way.

Thoughts?

Pictures from catwalking.com